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清代的服饰Costumes of the [ Qing Dynasty ]中国传统服饰(12)

时间:2017-06-18 21:06来源:未知 作者:admin 点击:
瓜皮帽 瓜皮帽是以六瓣合缝的便帽,也称小帽子,取其六合一统之意,创自明朝。其质料夏秋用纱,春冬用缎,颜色多为黑色,里子用红色,讲究的还用

    瓜皮帽

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    瓜皮帽是以六瓣合缝的便帽,也称“小帽子”,取其六合一统之意,创自明朝。其质料夏秋用纱,春冬用缎,颜色多为黑色,里子用红色,讲究的还用锦缎滚边。这种小帽形式很多,有平顶、尖顶、硬胎、软胎之别。平顶大都是硬胎,内衬棉花;尖顶大都为软胎,取其便利,不戴时可折起来装入衣袋里。便帽上有“结子”,结子一般是用红色丝线编成的,有丧则用黑色或白色;结子的大小,也随流行而变;也有不用帽结而以珊瑚、水晶、料珠等代替的。帽缘正中,另缀一块四方形的帽准作为装饰,这种帽准一般多用玉,也有用碧霞珠宝的。
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Skull cap
 
       The  skull  cap,  nicknamed Òsmall capÓ was an informal hat made of 6 flakes, which meant unity of the six directions: east, west, north, south, Heaven (up) and Earth (down). It originated from the Ming Dynasty. The hats were a conical shape using black gauge with red lining in summer and autumn and satin in winter and spring, while being edged with colored silk brocade. There were many kinds of skull cap; which could be distinguished by the flat top, steeple-top, hard stuffing and soft stuffing. The skull cap with flat top was usually the hard stuffing padded with cotton; while the steep crowns were usually made of soft stuffing. Therefore, they could be folded and put into the pockets. There was a red  (or black or white for funeral) floss-silk knot on top of the hat. The big or small of the knots that might be replaced by the coral, crystal, or pearl stuff would be changed from time to time. In the middle of the marginal ridge was embellished with a square ornaments which were made of jade or green jewels.

  dedecms.com

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戴小帽的男子(传世图照)A man wearing a skull cap

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    清代男子一般的装束是长袍或长衫配马褂、马甲,腰束长腰带。马褂长至肚脐,左右侧缝和后中缝开衩,袖口平直(无马蹄袖端),有的袖长过手,有的袖长仅至手腕,开襟形式有对襟、大襟、琵琶襟等。女式马褂款式有挽袖(袖比手臂长的)、舒袖(袖不及手臂长的)两类。衣身长短肥瘦的流行变化,与男式马褂差不多。但女式马褂全身施纹彩,并用花边镶饰。
  dedecms.com

Mandarin jacket
 
       The common garments of Manchu men were robe or long gown, while they matched with mandarin jacket, vest and long belt round the waist. The Mandarin jacketÕs length was as long as to the navel with openings at the left, right stitches and in the central stitch of the back. It had flat and straight sleeve end. SleeveÕs length surpassed that of hand, but some sleeveÕs length could only reach to the wrist. The style of opening includes front opening, side opening and pipa (a plucked string instrument with a fretted fingerboard) opening. The style of the Mandarin jacket for Manchu women fell into two categories: tussah waste sleeves (sleeves longer than arms) and comfort sleeves (sleeves shorter than arms). The fashionable changes of its length, loose or girth were similar to those of Mandarin jacket for Manchu men. But, the Mandarin jacket for Manchu women were made of figured weaving and brimmed with lace trimming.

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  dedecms.com

琵琶襟马褂(传世实物) dedecms.com

Mandarin jacket  (being handed down from ancient times)

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穿对襟马褂及行袍者 dedecms.com

A man wearing open front mandarin jacket and slack style gown

 

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晚清刺绣对襟女衫

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The women Mandarin jacket of the late Qing Dynasty made of azure gauze with brimming right front (China National Museum)
 

 

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晚清天青纱大镶边右衽女马褂(传世品,国家博物馆藏) 内容来自dedecms

The  embroidery  opening  front  women blouse of the late Qing Dynasty

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