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清代的服饰Costumes of the [ Qing Dynasty ]中国传统服饰(14)

时间:2017-06-18 21:06来源:未知 作者:admin 点击:
旗 髻 旗髻指两把头、大拉翅等满族头髻。两把头的梳法是先将长发向后梳,分为两股,下垂到脖后,再将两股头发分别向上折,折叠时一边加黏液,一边

    旗 髻

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    旗髻指“两把头”、“大拉翅”等满族头髻。两把头的梳法是先将长发向后梳,分为两股,下垂到脖后,再将两股头发分别向上折,折叠时一边加黏液,一边复压使之扁平,微向上翻,余发上折,合为一服,反复至前顶,随用头绳(红丝线或棉线绳)绕发根一圈扎结固定,其上插扁方,余发绕扁方上,使扁方与发根之柱状合成T字形。前戴大花卉及珠结,侧面垂流苏。后来,旗髻逐渐增高,两边角也不断扩大,上面套戴一顶形似“扇形”的冠,一般用青素缎、青绒做成,称为“旗头”或“官装”,俗称“大拉翅”。
 

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Manchu’s hair bun
 
      The ManchuÕs Hair Bun meant the hair bun likel iang ba tou, da la chi and so on. The way of combing the hair bun of liang ba tou (two plaits) was: comb the hair backward, put it into two plaits and droop to the neck; then, fold the two plaits respectively up, adding glue while flattening, turn up slightly and fold the remaining hair up to join into one plait, repeat so till to the front top of the head; next, coil around the hair root with head string (red silk thread or cotton thread string) and tied it up firmly, then insert a headwear called deltoid and coiled the remaining hair on it, making the deltoid and the hair root a kind of ÒTÓ shape. It also wore big flower and pearls in the front and droop tassels in the side. Later on, the ManchuÕs hair bun was increasingly heightened and the side angle enlarged with a fan-styled coronet made by green satin plain, gray velvet and green diametrical yarn, which was called qi tou or official dress, or generally called as da la chi.

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梳旗髻的满族妇女(清人《贞妃常服像》)
A Manchu noble woman

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一字头 Boat neckline copyright dedecms

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大拉翅 Da la chi

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