服装学习网-学习服装知识从此开始!

vivi服装学习网

当前位置: 主页 > 特色专题 > 中国传统服饰 >

清代的服饰Costumes of the [ Qing Dynasty ]中国传统服饰(5)

时间:2017-06-18 21:06来源:未知 作者:admin 点击:
百官冠帽 百官帽子的最高部分装有顶珠,原料多为宝石,颜色有红、蓝、白、金等。顶珠是区别官职的重要标志。按照清朝礼仪,一品官员顶珠用红宝石

    百官冠帽 copyright dedecms

    百官帽子的最高部分装有顶珠,原料多为宝石,颜色有红、蓝、白、金等。顶珠是区别官职的重要标志。按照清朝礼仪,一品官员顶珠用红宝石,二品用珊瑚,三品用蓝宝石,四品用青金石,五品用水晶,六品用砗磲,七品用素金,八品用阴文镂花金,九品用阳文镂花金。无顶珠者,即无品级。
  织梦好,好织梦

Court official’s cap
 
    On the top of the court officialÕs hat fixed a pearl, indicating the officialÕs rank, which was made of jewels in red, blue, white or golden colors. The practice of using the pearl on the officialÕs cap to signify the rank of wearer was common in the Qing Dynasty. The first (highest) rank used the ruby; second rank, coral; third rank, sapphire; fourth rank, lapis lazuli; fifth rank, crystal; sixth rank, giant clam; seventh rank, gold; eighth rank, ornamental engraving gold with characters cut in intaglio; ninth rank, ornamental engraving gold with characters cut in relief. Those who wore caps with no pearls on its top had no rank at all.

  本文来自织梦

 

    翎 子 本文来自织梦

    清代戴礼帽时,一般在顶珠之下都装有一支6-7cm长的、用白玉或翡翠制作的翎管,这翎管主要是用来安插翎枝的。清朝的翎子有花翎、蓝翎之别,以花翎为贵。花翎用孔雀翎毛,有一眼、二眼、三眼之分。所谓“眼”,就是指翎毛尾梢的彩色斑纹。孔雀翎中,又以三眼最贵;蓝翎则以鹳羽为之,无眼。清朝翎子的装法是将翎子拖在脑后。
  本文来自织梦

Ling zi
 
    The ornamentation of the ceremonial hat included a tube of 6_7cm long, made of jade or jadeite used to insert feathers. The ling zi could be divided into the multi-colored feathers that were more honorable and blue feathers in the Qing Dynasty. The peacock feathers fell into three categories according to the colorful stripes of feather end: one stripe, two stripes, or tree stripes. The three-stripe peacock feathers worn by the officials were most honorable. The blue feathers were the stork feathers without any stripe. The ling zi were worn at the back of Mandarin hat.

  copyright dedecms

本文来自织梦

  织梦内容管理系统

凉帽(传世实物)The cool hat (being handed down from ancient times)  copyright dedecms

  copyright dedecms

copyright dedecms

 

dedecms.com

穿补服的官吏(清人《关天培写真像》) 内容来自dedecms

An official wearing the patching dress ( Portrait of Guan Tianpei painted by a Qing painter)

 

dedecms.com

copyright dedecms

  dedecms.com

暖帽(传世实物)
A  quilted  hat  for  warmth   (being  handed down from ancient times) 内容来自dedecms

 

本文来自织梦

织梦内容管理系统

  织梦好,好织梦

清单眼、双眼、三眼孔雀花翎

织梦内容管理系统

(北京故宫博物院藏) dedecms.com

The  colorful  single-stripe,  two-stripe  and  tri- stripe peacock feathers of the Qing Dynasty (Palace Museum, Beijing)
 

 

dedecms.com

 

 

本文来自织梦

内容来自dedecms

冠帽上的顶子(传世实物)
The top of the crown (being handed down from ancient times)
内容来自dedecms

    补 服 本文来自织梦

    清代补服从形式到内容都是对明朝官服的直接承袭,补服是清代文武百官的重要官服,也是清代的礼服。补服以装饰于前胸及后背的补子的不同图案来区别官位的高低。皇室成员用圆形补子,各级官员均用方形补子。补服的造型特点是:圆领,对襟,平袖,袖与肘齐,衣长至膝下。门襟有五颗纽扣,是一种宽松肥大的石青色外衣,当时也称之为“外套”。 内容来自dedecms

    清代补服的补子纹样分皇族和百官两大类。皇族补服纹样为:五爪金龙或四爪蟒。各品级文武官员纹样为:文官一品用仙鹤;二品用锦鸡;三品用孔雀;四品用雁;五品用白鹇;六品用鹭鸶;七品用鶒鸂;八品用鹌鹑;九品用练雀。武官一品用麒麟;二品用狮子;三品用豹;四品用虎;五品用熊;六品用彪;七品和八品用犀牛;九品用海马。
 

织梦好,好织梦

 
Patching dress
 
      The patching dress had two court insignia badges, front  and  back,  indicating  the  official  rank  ,  an important officialÕs ceremonial dress in the Qing Dynasty, which was inherited from that of the Ming Dynasty. The insignia badges patched on the dress of royal kinsmen was in circular shape, while those of the officials  were  square  ones.  The  moldering  of  the patching dress was characteristic of long dress to knees with circular collar, opening front and flat sleeves to elbow while there were five buttons on fly facing. It was a loose and comfortable coat in azurite color, which wascalled Òovercoat.Ó
 
      The patching insignia badges were divided into two categories. The patching dress of the royal family could wear the insignia badges of golden dragon with five claws or boa with four claws. Court officials were allowed to wear certain emblems and colors according to their rank and function. The insignia badges of the civil officials were as follows: the first (highest) rank was white crane; the second , golden pheasant; the third, peacock;  the  fourth,  wild  goose;  the  fifth,  silver pheasant; the sixth, egret; the seventh, mandarin duck; the eighth, quail; the ninth, paradise flycatcher. The insignia badges of the military officials were as follows: the first (highest) rank was unicorn; the second rank, lion; the third rank, leopard; the fourth rank, tiger; the fifth rank, bear; the sixth rank, panther; the seventh rank, rhinoceros; the eighth rank, also rhinoceros; the ninth rank, sea horse.
 

  织梦内容管理系统

 

 

本文来自织梦

copyright dedecms

 

dedecms.com

清《万树园赐宴图》中穿吉服袍外罩补褂的官员们

dedecms.com

O f f i c i a l s  in  the  p i c t u r e  of  B a n q u e t  in  en  Thousand Trees Garden

 

dedecms.com

本文来自织梦

 

内容来自dedecms

亲王补子——团龙(传世实物) 内容来自dedecms

The Prince patching dress _ medallion dragons (being handed down from ancient times) 

 

本文来自织梦

 

 

dedecms.com

内容来自dedecms

  织梦好,好织梦

武一品官补子——麒麟(传世实物) 内容来自dedecms

The  symbol  of  the  patching  dress  of  an of ficial  with  sixth  rank  _ panther  (being handed down from ancient times)
 
 

  dedecms.com

本文来自织梦

 

copyright dedecms

武三品官补子——豹(传世实物)

织梦好,好织梦

The  symbol  of  the  patching  dress  of  the military official with the third rank -- leopard (being handed down from ancient times)

 

本文来自织梦

本文来自织梦

 

织梦内容管理系统

武六品官补 ——彪(传世实物) 织梦内容管理系统

The symbol of the patching dress of the military official with the first rank -- unicorn (being handed down from ancient times)

  本文来自织梦

内容来自dedecms

文一品官补子——仙鹤(传世实物)

织梦好,好织梦

The symbol of the patching dress of an official with first rank-white crane  (being handed down from ancient times)
 

(责任编辑:admin)

织梦二维码生成器
------分隔线----------------------------
各位学友,下面的相关文章可能对您很有帮助!
发表评论
请自觉遵守互联网相关的政策法规,严禁发布色情、暴力、反动的言论。
评价:
用户名: 验证码: 点击我更换图片
栏目列表
推荐内容