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明代的服饰Costumes of the[ Ming Dynasty ]中国传统服饰(11)

时间:2017-06-18 20:45来源:未知 作者:admin 点击:
弓鞋 明代女子不仅沿袭了前代缠足的风俗,而且使之大胜。缠足后所穿的鞋叫做弓鞋,这是一种以香樟木制成的高底鞋。木底露在外边的叫外高底,有杏

    弓鞋

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    明代女子不仅沿袭了前代缠足的风俗,而且使之大胜。缠足后所穿的鞋叫做“弓鞋”,这是一种以香樟木制成的高底鞋。木底露在外边的叫“外高底”,有“杏叶”、“莲子”、“荷花”等名称;木底藏在里边的一般叫“里高底”,又称“道士冠”。老年妇女大多穿平底鞋,称为“底而香”。
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Shoes for women with bound foot
 
      Shoes in diverse styles were developed for women with bound foot, including the so-called Òbow shoesÓ_ shoes with high soles of camphor wood. Shoes for old women have low soles.

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穿弓鞋的妇女(山西宾宁寺明《水陆画》局部)
Ming Dynasty women with bound feet

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高底弓鞋Shoes with high soles

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翘头小脚银鞋Shoes for women with bound feet

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    女子发饰

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    明代女子将头髻梳成扁圆形状,并在发髻的顶部,饰以宝石制成的花朵,时称“挑心髻”。后来又将发髻梳高,以金银丝挽结,顶上也有珠翠装点。渐渐地名目越来越多,样式也从扁圆趋于长圆,有“桃尖顶髻”、“鹅胆心髻”等名称,还有模仿汉代“堕马髻”的。除此之外,明代妇女也常用假髻作装饰。这种假髻一般比原来的发髻要高出一半,戴时罩在真髻上,以簪绾住头发。明末,这类发饰的样式更加丰富,有“懒梳头”、“双飞燕”、“到枕松”等各种不同样式,甚至还有成品出售。
 

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Hairstyles

       Numerous  hairstyles  were popular during the Ming Dynasty. The most popular in the early period of the dynasty was an oblate bun or coil with flowers of precious stone on the top. Then came buns and coils taller and conditioned with gold or silver threads. As time went by, hair buns and coils became longer while still round, with poetic names like Òpeach fruit tipÓ and Ògoose heartÓ. Artificial buns and coils were favored because they were higher. These, too, were  diverse  in  style  and  form. Besides, there were women who liked to have their hair combed into the Òfalling  horse  bunÓ  of  the  Han Dynasty.

 

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簪珠翠发饰的贵妇及挂玉佩的侍女(陈洪绶《夔龙补衮图》)
A noblewoman and her maidservants
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金凤簪(湖北蕲春蕲州明刘娘井墓出土) 内容来自dedecms

Hairpin in the shape of ru yi (auspicious bar)

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如意头簪(四川成都营门口明墓出土)
Hairpins of gold in the shape of phoenix

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    头 箍

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    明代在年轻女子中,还有戴头箍的风尚。头箍最初是以棕丝结成网状,罩住头发。以后戴的人渐渐多了,又出现了纱头箍及热罗头箍。头箍的作用,慢慢地也由束发变成了一种装饰,发展到最后,只留下一条窄边,系扎在额头眉上。 本文来自织梦

Head hoops
 
       Young  women  of  the  Ming Dynasty also liked to have silk hoops round their heads. These originated from  palm  fiber  nets  used  to condition the hair coils and buns.


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