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宋代的服饰Costumes of the [Song Dynasty]中国传统服饰(7)

时间:2017-08-15 21:06来源:未知 作者:admin 点击:
冠 饰 宋代的贵族女子冠饰,在沿袭前世高冠、花冠的基础之上,冠的形状愈加高大,装饰也愈加丰富。其中冠高有达1米的,冠宽与肩等齐。冠后常有四角

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    宋代的贵族女子冠饰,在沿袭前世高冠、花冠的基础之上,冠的形状愈加高大,装饰也愈加丰富。其中冠高有达1米的,冠宽与肩等齐。冠后常有四角下垂至肩,冠的上面装饰有金银珠翠、彩色花饰、玳瑁梳子等。戴这种高大的冠饰坐轿子时,必须侧着头才能进轿门。
 

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Hats for women
 
        Women from aristocratic families of the Song Dynasty liked to wear tall hats _ in some cases as tall as one meter. The higher a hat was, the more personal ornaments would there be on it, including jewelry, flowers and combs of hawksbill turtle shell. Such hats are not only tall, but also wide _ of the same width as the shoulders. It was really difficult for women to do things with this sort of hats on, for example, when trying to enter a covered sedan chair.

 

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戴凤冠、穿衫裙、挂缨络的妇女(山西永乐宫三清殿壁画)

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Woman with a phoenix coronet on, in a mural in a Taoist temple in Shanxi

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    花 子

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    唐代的花钿传到宋代便叫作“花子”,这就是在额上和两颊间贴上金帛或彩纸剪成的纹样。花子的背面涂有产于辽水地区的呵胶,用口呵嘘便可以随意粘贴。
 

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Ornamental designs on women’s foreheads or cheeks
 
        Like their counterparts of the Tang Dynasty, women of the Song Dynasty liked to paste ornamental designs on their foreheads or cheeks. The difference was that such designs popular during the Song had a thin layer of glue and the job, therefore, became much easier.

 

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戴花冠的宋代妇女 copyright dedecms

(南薰殿旧藏《历代帝后图》局部)
Woman of the Song Dynasty
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    发 髻

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    宋代女子流行高发髻。髻的名目很多,有龙蕊髻、芭蕉髻、朝天髻、大盘髻等。少女一般梳双环髻,是将头发梳成中空的环形,垂于耳旁。人们在梳妆时常在头发中加添假发,或直接装假髻,髻的周围多环以绿翠、扎以彩缯、间以玉钗或用丝网固定。
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Hairstyles
 
      Tall hair buns and coils diverse in form and style were popular among women of the Song Dynasty. Girls liked to have their hair combed into two rings hanging at the side of their ears. “Wigs” or artificial buns and coils were often used, and so were silk ribbons, jade hairpins and nets of silk thread to condition hair buns and coils.

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江西景德镇市效宋墓出土瓷俑,梳单鬟髻,插大梳,加珠翠为饰

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Porcelain woman unearthed from a tomb of the Song Dynasty in Jingdezhen, ChinaÕs Òporcelain capitalÓ
 

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太原市晋祠圣母殿北宋元佑二年(公元1087年)彩塑侍女像 copyright dedecms

Painted clay statue of a maidservant produced in 1087 (Taiyuan, Shanxi)

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