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隋唐五代的服饰Costumes of the[Sui,Tang and Five-Dynasties period]中国传统服饰(3)

时间:2017-06-10 21:54来源:未知 作者:admin 点击:
唐圆领衫、袍 圆领衫、袍是在古代深衣的基础上发展而来的,是唐代男子主要的服装形式。它的前后身采用直裾,在领子、袖口、衣裾边缘部分都加贴边

    唐圆领衫、袍

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    圆领衫、袍是在古代深衣的基础上发展而来的,是唐代男子主要的服装形式。它的前后身采用直裾,在领子、袖口、衣裾边缘部分都加贴边。在前后襟的下边,常各用一幅布横向拼接,腰部用革带紧束,上戴幞头,下穿长靴。圆领衫、袍的衣袖分窄袖和宽袖两种,窄袖的便于活动,宽袖的则可以表现出潇洒、华贵的风度。
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Round collar jacket and gown of the Tang Dynasty
 
      A development of shenyi that dates back to several thousand years ago, round collar jackets and gowns are known as the main forms of clothing for men of the Tang Dynasty. The front and back of a jacket or gown are straight and long, with fringes of the collar, cuffs, front and back hemmed. The front and back each have a piece of cloth attached, which are horizontally tied round the waist. When in such a jacket or gown, the wearer invariably had a leather belt round the waist, an embroidered cap or hat and a pair of boots. Sleeves could either be tight or loose.
Jackets  and  gowns  with  tight  sleeves  were designed to facilitate movement of the wearer and those with long sleeves, to make the wearer appear elegant and easy.

 

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    唐幞头 【摘自fuzhuangxuexi.cn】

    起初,人们用一块布从后脑向前把发髻捆住,并使巾布的两角在脑后打结,自然下垂如带状;另两角回到头顶打成结子作装饰,这就是初期的幞头。后来,人们又在巾布的四角上接上带子,使其自然飘垂,装饰性就更强了;再后来,人们甚至将带子裁成或圆或阔的各种形状,并用丝弦或铜丝、铁丝作骨,放在带子里,这就变成了可以任意造型的翘脚幞头。
 

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   Futou
 
      What is known to historians as futou is in fact a turdan, a piece of cloth with two corners in opposite directions tied at the back of the wearer’s head, leaving the other two corners to serve as decorations. As time went by, a ribbon came to be attached to each corner to make the turdan even more decorative. The ribbons have metal wires  or  silk  strings  inside.  With  these  as supports, the turdan, or futou, could assume the kind of style to the liking of the wearer.

  【摘自fuzhuangxuexi.cn】

 

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纱罗幞头图(根据传世绘画及出土陶俑复原绘制)

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Gauze turban, painted from ancient paintings and terracotta figures

 

【摘自fuzhuangxuexi.cn】

 

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裹幞头、穿圆领袍衫、乌皮靴的官吏(陕西乾县李重润墓壁画)

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 Officials as portrayed in a mural in a Tang Dyansty tomb, Qianxian, Shaanxi

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【摘自fuzhuangxuexi.cn】

裹幞头、穿圆领袍衫的帝王及官吏(阎立本《步辇图》)
Emperor and his court officials in a Tang Dynasty painting
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